The power of Retinoids
Retinoids are all the rage and a powerful tool in your skincare lineup. But what are they? How do they work?
Retinoids are one of the most highly studied skincare ingredients and directly effect the collagen and elastin production in your skin. Collagen provides structure and support in your body and elastins are responsible for flexibility. Retinoids are the number one choice for anti-aging. They promote cellular turnover to help new cell growth. This improves skins density in the deepest layers of your skin, stimulating and strengthening collagen to reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Retinoids also stimulate the production of new blood vessels, improve skin tone and texture and reduce dark spots. They reduce inflammation and unclog blocked pores making it great for acne and breakout prone skin as well. They increases the skins ability to produce glycosaminoglycans, which are hugely important for skin hydration.
Topical Retinoids are derived from Vitamin A and come in several forms and strengths. For them to be absorbed and used in your skin they must be converted to retinoic acid. Something you need to keep in mind when choosing a retinoid product is the strength and overall formulation, and stronger is not always better. If a retinoid is too strong, it can cause irritation and more, and you may be unable to use it daily. When using any skincare, consistency is key, and you will benefit more from a product you can use daily, and for longer.
Types and strengths from lowest to highest
Retinol esters- Weakest retinoid, and requires 3 steps conversion to retinoic acid.
Retinol- 2 step conversion into retinoic acid
Retinal- 1 step conversion into retinoic acid
Retinoic acid (trentinoin)- Prescription strength
Retinoids are sometimes mistaken for exfoliants because of the peeling it can cause if it is too strong, however it is not. It does promote cellular turnover, which slows as we age.
Cellular turnover rates by age
0-12 years- 14 days
13-18 years- 14-28 days
18-29 years- 24-30 days
30-39 years- 28-35 days
40-49 years- 30- 42 days
50+- 45-84 days
Because of this slow down progession as we age, to see the benefits of any skincare routine, it takes time, and consistency to see results. You must focus on the long terms goals and not immediate results.
When it comes to treating hyperpigmentation and dark spots, it may look worse before it gets better. This is because those are deep in the skin and must come to the surface to slough off. New skin cells are made deep in the skin and then rise to the surface. This is why cellular turnover is so important. To increase the rate at which new skin cells are made, increases the rate at which the old and damaged ones are removed.
At 1735, we offer two Sorella Apothecary treatments featuring retinoids, our at home resurfacing elixir, which features retinal, and a professional treatment, The Boost, which can be a standalone treatment or used as an add-on to other services, which is 4% retinol.
